Manda is quieter. Lamu island is just across the water.

Mkoko is on Manda Island, a quieter setting across the water from Lamu Old Town and Shela village. For more than seven centuries, Lamu Old Town has remained a living Swahili settlement, shaped by the meeting of African, Arab, Persian, Indian and European cultures.

An old fort keeps guard over the main square, the main market bursting with the colours of local produce. Stunning architecture featuring carved timber and mangrove wood, coral-studded walls, narrow streets and verandas form part of landscape. Out on the water, traditional dhows set the rhythm of the archipelago, their elegant sails a permanent feature on the horizon.

Shela has its own vibe: sandy lanes, the seafront, the minaret above the roofs and the beach stretching away. It is a place for walking, swimming and eating late under the stars.

Dhow excursions are one of the best ways to see the archipelago — sailing between islands, fishing, or simply drifting with the tide. At Mkoko, the house becomes a place to return to after a day on the water, in the old town, on the beach or simply under the trees.